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Khardung La is the gateway to Nubra Valley, a high pass on the road from Leh. Signs at the top declare it one of the highest motorable roads in the world, with a height that is often quoted as more than 5,600 metres. In reality, surveys put it closer to 5,300 metres, but that is still extremely high, and the crossing is a defining moment of a Ladakh trip.
What the crossing is like
The road climbs from Leh in a series of hairpin bends, through bare, windswept slopes. Near the top, snow patches linger even in summer. At the pass, you find a small cafe, a temple, a war memorial and prayer flags. The air is thin and cold, and the wind can be strong. The views are of snow-covered peaks and the road snaking down on both sides.
Altitude: the real challenge
At over 5,000 metres, the air has about half the oxygen of sea level. Many people feel breathless, dizzy or nauseous at the top. For safety:
- Do not cross in your first days in Leh. Wait until you have acclimatised for at least 48 hours.
- Limit your time at the top to 10 to 20 minutes.
- Walk slowly, and avoid running or climbing.
- Drink water, and avoid smoking or alcohol.
- If you feel unwell, descend immediately.
- People with heart or lung conditions should avoid or consult a doctor.
Road conditions
The road is partly paved and partly rough. Landslides, snow and traffic can slow progress. Heavy snowfall or rain can close the pass, often in the afternoon or in changing weather. Drivers usually leave Leh early in the morning to cross before the weather changes. Travel with an experienced driver, and keep a buffer in your plan.
What to wear
Even in summer, temperatures at the top can drop below zero. Wear layers, a windproof jacket, a woollen cap, gloves and sunglasses. UV is strong, so use sunscreen. Wear sturdy shoes.
Best time to cross
Morning is best, when the sky is clear and the road is quiet. Afternoon clouds can limit visibility. June to September offers the most reliable conditions. In May and October, expect snow and ice.
Tips
- Start early, around 7 to 8 am from Leh.
- Carry water, snacks and a first-aid kit.
- Do not stop on bends or at risky points.
- Respect the military presence; photography of vehicles and installations is prohibited.
- Do not litter, since waste is difficult to clear at this altitude.
- Visit the small shop for tea, which feels like a reward.
Who it suits
Healthy, acclimatised travellers. If you have health concerns or travel with children or elders, ask us about alternatives that avoid crossing the pass.
Combine it with
Khardung La is part of the Leh to Nubra journey. See the Nubra guide and the Ladakh classic tour, or ask us for advice.
