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Thekkady is Kerala's wildlife and spice country. The town of Kumily sits beside the Periyar Tiger Reserve, whose large lake was created by a dam in the nineteenth century and is now a major habitat for elephants, deer and birds. Around it lie cardamom, pepper, coffee and vanilla plantations, and the road to Munnar passes through some of the greenest country in the state.
What Thekkady is like
Kumily is a busy market town, full of spice shops, tour operators and small hotels. The forest and lake are a few minutes away. The pace is slower once you leave the town, with plantation resorts and homestays in the hills. It is a good stop between Munnar and the backwaters, and works well for families.
What to do
Periyar Tiger Reserve is the main draw, with a boat ride on the lake at dawn or late afternoon. Other forest experiences include guided nature walks, bamboo rafting and jungle patrol programmes run by the forest department and local eco-development committees. Treks are restricted and booked through the official eco-tourism centre.
Spice plantation visits show cardamom, pepper, cloves, nutmeg and vanilla in their natural setting, and many farms offer guided tours and fresh spices to buy. Choose a farm that explains how the plants are grown and does not pressure you to buy.
Kerala arts. Evening Kathakali and kalaripayattu demonstrations are staged in Kumily. They are shorter than full performances and make a good introduction.
Tea and coffee estates. The hills around Thekkady, such as Vandiperiyar and Peermade, have tea and coffee estates and cool viewpoints.
Avoid elephant rides
Elephant rides and "elephant shows" in the Thekkady area raise welfare concerns, and many travellers now avoid them. Wild elephants are visible from the lake boat in season, and some plantation stays offer elephant-friendly experiences such as watching them bathe in sanctuaries. Ask us about responsible options.
How long to stay
Two nights is the sweet spot: one afternoon for a plantation visit and an evening show, and one morning for the lake. If you are short on time, one night between Munnar and Alleppey works.
When to go
September to March is the most comfortable window. The lake is fullest after the monsoon, and wildlife sightings are good in the dry months when animals visit the water. The monsoon brings heavy rain and leeches on forest walks, though the area is lush. Summer is warm.
Where to stay
Plantation resorts and homestays in the hills around Kumily offer quiet and views. Hotels in Kumily town are convenient and cheaper, but noisier. Check distance to the park gate and whether early morning boat tickets can be arranged.
A suggested day
Begin with an early boat ride on the lake while the animals are active, then return for breakfast and rest. Visit a spice plantation in the late morning for a guided walk and lunch. In the afternoon, take it easy at the resort or browse the spice shops in Kumily, and in the evening watch a Kathakali or kalaripayattu show. It is a day with plenty of variety and no rush.
Buying spices
Spice shops in Kumily sell cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, vanilla and tea. Prices vary, so compare at a couple of shops and check the freshness. Whole spices keep their aroma longer than powders, and vacuum-sealed packs travel well. Be wary of shops that pressure you into large purchases, and do not buy anything you cannot take back on a flight, such as certain plant materials.
Getting there
Thekkady is about 110 km from Munnar (three and a half to four hours), 160 km from Alleppey (four hours) and 5 to 6 hours from Kochi. Roads are winding. The nearest airports are Madurai (about 140 km) and Kochi.
Plan Thekkady with us
Thekkady fits between Munnar and the backwaters in our Classic Kerala tour and the family holiday. Tell us your dates and we will suggest a stay.
