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West of Leh, the road to Srinagar follows the Indus and then climbs into Kargil and Dras. This is a different Ladakh: older, quieter and shaped as much by Buddhist art as by the landscape. The monasteries of Alchi and Lamayuru, the Moonland formations and the Kargil war memorial give a full day or two of rewarding sightseeing for travellers who want more than lakes and passes.
What the route is like
The Srinagar to Leh highway runs through a series of valleys. Lamayuru lies about 125 km west of Leh, Alchi about 70 km, and Kargil about 215 km. The road is generally good, with wide views of the Indus, barren mountains and small oasis villages. The route is lower than Nubra or Pangong, so altitude is easier.
What to see
- Lamayuru Monastery, one of the oldest and most dramatic monasteries in Ladakh, above a landscape of eroded hills known as Moonland.
- Alchi Choskor, a village monastery complex from the eleventh century, famous for its murals in an Indo-Tibetan style.
- Magnetic Hill, a stretch of road where vehicles appear to roll uphill, an optical illusion near Leh.
- Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, a Sikh shrine maintained by the Army, near Leh.
- Sangam, the Indus-Zanskar confluence, where two rivers of different colours meet.
- Kargil War Memorial at Dras, a memorial to the soldiers of the 1999 conflict.
- Mulbekh, a village with a large rock-cut statue of Maitreya.
How many days
A day trip from Leh to Alchi and Lamayuru is possible but long, around ten hours. A better plan is an overnight at Lamayuru or Alchi. Kargil and Dras fit into a Srinagar to Leh journey, or a two-day trip.
Where to stay
Lamayuru has guesthouses and a small hotel close to the monastery. Alchi has simple guesthouses. Kargil has hotels of various levels, mainly for road travellers. Facilities are basic, so expect simple rooms and meals.
Permits and rules
Most of the western route is open to visitors without special permits, but Kargil and Dras involve military zones, and photography is restricted in some places. Carry government photo ID. We confirm current rules.
Roads and seasons
The Srinagar to Leh highway crosses Zojila Pass and is open in summer, usually from April or May to November, depending on snow. In winter, it is closed for long periods. The Sonamarg tunnel on the Kashmir side has improved access, but Zojila itself remains seasonal.
Responsible travel
Alchi's murals are delicate. Follow the rules on photography and do not touch the paintings. At Lamayuru, respect the monks' routines. At the war memorial, behave with dignity. Keep the landscape clean.
Best time to visit
June to September is the main season. In May and October, nights are cold. Winter is very cold, and many places close.
A suggested western-route day
An early start from Leh brings you to Magnetic Hill and the Indus–Zanskar confluence by mid-morning. Alchi follows, with its small temples and delicate murals, and a simple lunch in the village. In the afternoon, the road climbs to Lamayuru, where the monastery and the Moonland are best seen in late light. Many travellers then return to Leh in the evening, which makes for a long day of about ten hours, while others stay overnight at Lamayuru to enjoy the sunrise and morning prayers. If you add Kargil and Dras, treat them as a separate two-day journey, ideally on the way in or out of Ladakh on the Srinagar road.
Plan with us
The western route can be added to a Leh stay, or to a Srinagar to Leh journey. See our Ladakh classic tour and the 8-day itinerary, or tell us your plans.
